MEKHALA; THE GODESS OF THE SEA: RETURN TO THE TSUNAMI 10 YEARS ON

On the 26th of December 2004 at 00.58 UCT an earthquake occurred off the west coast of Sumatra, Indonesia, with a magnitude of 9.1. It was third highest earthquake ever recorded. It triggered a series of deadly Tsunami's, that killed over 230,000 people, in 14 countries, most of them still in their beds sleeping unaware of the 100ft waves racing towards them. It is probably the deadliest natural disaster to have occurred in recorded history. 

I was traveling when this disaster occurred, but I was nowhere near it.  I was 25; on my first ever backpacking trip; with 3 of my closet friends around the world. We were thousands of miles away on that Boxing Day morning, living in our own utopia on a remote Fujian island, completely cut off and unaware that part of the world was falling to pieces across the ocean. It wasn't until a week later when we landed in Auckland, and I sat having my breakfast in a hipster cafe, that I was confronted with a newspaper; it's front page covered with washed up dead bodies on a beach, that I realised the true horror of what had happened. As we continued our travels up into Asia, stories drifted around of the big Tsunami, sometimes from people who had been there, (And some of them with so little tac that they describe the whole event as if they had survived the Big Dipper at Blackpool and had got T-shirt to prove it)! 

Two months later I found myself alone in Bangkok. My travel companions had all slowly, but surely left me because of money, home sickness or where missing their boyfriend. I on the other hand had no urge to go home, as I've never really suffered from the home sickness bug. I decided instead, that it was time to see this terrible event, that had haunted most of my trip, with my own eyes. After a lot of searching I finally found a bus and boat that would take me to the island of Phi Phi, one of the worst hit areas in Thailand and a place that I heard was still crying out for help and volunteers. I sat on the near empty boat, on my own heading to Phi Phi, contemplating what I would find there. It was one of the most anxious journeys I think I have ever taken. I stood on deck as the boat motored into the harbour. The first thing I recall there were no trees. The greenery of what we invision for a tropical island was void. All that was left were snapped off trucks and sometimes not even that. As we neared the harbour I saw groups of divers rising and descending again in the water, as people shouted instructions from the pier. I found it all very odd that people were scuba diving at a time like this. It was only later that I learnt that these people were also volunteers, who were diving to help try free the still trapped bodies caught under rumble in the sea. Once on land the true extent of the destruction became apparent. The pathway on which I walked away from the harbour was piled high on either side like mountains with debris: broken doors, motorbikes, and electrical wires all poked out from the mass. It was like something out of a apocalypse movie. I wandered for a bit to find a guest house that had not been destroyed and that was still open, eventually finding one run by a little old Thai lady, who informed me that the volunteers had a meeting every night in a bar in the centre to discuss what needed doing and to allocate jobs. Later that night I find my self sat at the bar surrounded by a mass of volunteers listening to what progress has been made and what needs doing. I'm feeling slightly shy and awkward as I'm there on my own, so compensate this by being very enthusiastic, as I volunteer myself for the first task that is requiring people. It's beach clear up. The girl sat beside me volunteers too. She looks at me and says,

"Are you here on your own too? Have you just arrived?"

I tell her yes to both questions. She is in the same circumstances too.

"We should go and get a beer!" She says.

This is how I met Mel. Mel was an Australian with fair skin that probably was not suited to hot weather and strawberry blonde flowing locks that fell to her waist. She possessed a confidence and sureness in life that I lacked. I instantly liked her. We walked to the beach, but the only way we knew we had arrived there, was by the the sound of the waves, as there was nothing but total blackness, apart from a small light, shining a little further up. We walked towards it to find a shack with a Thai guy selling beers from a cool box. This was Ya Ya. He told us his story. He was selling beers to help his cousin who had, had a bar on the beach, that had been destroyed. His cousin had also lost his wife and 2 young daughters and many other members of their family. I didn't know what to say. But inside my heart bled. We sat and drank beers brought from him, as it was a little constellation that this would help them in some tiny way.

The next day before I started my volunteer duties, I, as one of the new people,  was to be shown round the devastation of the small town. The climax of which ended at the once Jewel in the crown; a five star hotel that had taken pride of place on the beach. The luxury beach huts which had lined the sand where all gone apart from remnants of two that barely held together. The most casualties on the island were the guests of these huts, swept out to sea as they slept in their beds unaware of the tidal wave of horror heading towards them. The main structure of the hotel itself was nothing but a shell with damp rooms, filled with sand, water and rotting furniture piled in corners. It was a sombering sight.

I'm taken to where I am to start beach clear up. I realise it's the beach where we were the night before as I can see the shack where we drank beers from, but this time instead of a mass of black as my view there is the most beautiful bay and beach, with green hills, and turquoise sea. It's kind of breath taking even with the devastation which can still be seen on beach. The lead volunteer gives us a pile of black bin liners and begins:

"We have been clearing the beach a lot but every day new rubbish from the tsunami washes in. If you find anyone's passports or ID's you must hand them in. Dead bodies don't really wash up anymore but we did have one the other week, so you must be aware to expect it. Put everything in the bags and pile them down there."

I look a bit like a rabbit in the head lights after her speech and stand there for a while with the bin liner in my hand, until I realise everyone else has already started clearing and I then I know that's what I must do. I remember it being such a weird experience. For the most, it was just general rubbish: food wrappers, broken wood, wires, things you couldn't recognise anymore, but then, every now and again some thing would turn up and it would make you question, just throwing it into a bag of rubbish without a thought. A shoe, a item of clothing; books. Then one day I see some thing and it makes me freeze in my tracks. I pick it up. It's a small teddy bear. A child's toy. It's damp and rotting. One eye is missing. I look at it and think of who it belonged too? I wondered if the child was still alive? I felt my eyes start to fill with water and then I did what I did with every other item I picked up, I threw it into a bin liner. I only did beach clear up for a week. I found it too hard mentally. I thought about that rotting teddy bear for a long time. I still do sometimes now, and what happened to all those bin bags I filled and piled high everyday, full of people's lives. 

During our days of beach clear up me and Mel, would rest and take drinks from Ya Ya at the shack. We grew to know him well and so we met Ben. Ben was Ya Ya's cousin, who had lost the bar and everything. When I say we met Ben, we didn't really meet Ben. We met a man totally devastated and a shell of his former self who would be drunk most of the time, but then no one could blame him. I always found it hard being round Ben. I never knew what to say to him. What can you say to some one that has lost everything. Mel was much better at it than me and took an active interest in Bens plight and how to help. Mel was not the only one either. Ben already had a good group of people around him trying help him start rebuild his life and bar for him. There was an English couple Rob and Tash; then there was a crazy Irish guy Deco and a lovely German girl (who now all these 10 years later, name escapes me). They had already started between them, to put together the startings of a frame work for the new bar. After beach duty, Mel found us new work sign painting for businesses and as I've always been a painter, I couldn't have been happier. We picked up another members of the group, Charlotte the girl with the chin piercing; Andrew the journalist doing a story on phi Phi who I would later stay with in Hong Kong, and Bec's a beautiful blonde gap year student, who we found trying to sunbathe on the beach. Deco made, me and Bec's, go and wake him up most mornings for work, as he would always oversleep, as he had usually got wasted the night before. We would wake him and he would always have a beer and pre-rolled joint beside his bed, which he lit as he got out of bed and say "There's nothing better than being awaken by two tall blondes in the morning!" While drinking his beer and recharging for the day. So this became my life for a couple of weeks. This weird little community among the chaos. I always remember out of all the times I have travelled, this experience and the people I met,  being one of the most happiest (even with all the sadness) and influential experiences of my life and has always had a lasting effect on me. Just before I left, Mel painted a sign for the new bar. It was to be called the Sunflower bar! 

In times gone by this would of been the end of this story, but through the power of modern technology, we volunteers connected again through social media which had not exsisted when we first met, and so we saw each other's lives from a far. I kept in contact with Mel now and again as she always had the great trait of being an extremely social person. I had left her behind in Phi Phi where she had stayed on to help and I saw over time she kept going back, and then back again, and then there were photos of her and Ben and then the announcement: she was pregnant with Ben's baby! It was the craziest most exciting news. They had a baby girl. She was called Mekhala, after the Thai Godess of the sea. A poitiant name indeed. I watch her grow over the years through photos and she made me so happy, this little girl I never had met, because she was something beautiful that had grown out of such sorrow and destruction.

It's 10 years later. I find myself leaving Australia, and I have a flight to Bangkok with a week to spare before I had to go to Sri Lanka for work. F**k it! I'm going back to Phi Phi. It seems like the right time all these years on. I catch a flight to Krabi and realise I've missed the last boat to the island and find myself walking round Krabi town late at night homeless with nowhere to stay. There have only been three occasions in all my time travelling where I have actual thought I might have to sleep on the street. This is one of them. Everywhere I try is full and I put my backpack down in the street in despair. A tuk tuk driver takes pity on me and takes me to a friends to stay out of town. It's a dump and I probably paid too much but it's better than the street. He picks me up early the next morning and takes me to the port. I catch an over crowded boat that we are herded on to like cattle. A very different experience to the first time I caught a boat there. I sit crunched up, for over an hour feeling rather dissolllioned by the people that surround me until a glimpse of the island comes into my view and I feel a massive wave of emotion that I didn't know was there, sweep over me. I'm back! We pull near to the harbour and I feel a sense of fear of that harbour, of seeing divers swimming around in it again, but there long gone. In fact everything is long gone. I don't recognise anything. The debris is replaced by modern concrete buildings and tourist traps. I disembark thinking I would know my route so well, but I know nothing! It's a maze of cheap bars, restruants and tattoo parlours. The only thing I know is to head straight to the other side to my bay, to my beach. No matter what time changes, it can't change that? I finally find it. The view is still the same. It's still beautiful and it still has a hold on my heart, but what surrounds it is not the same! Bucket bars! Pool parties! Drunken tourists!  I came here last, at such a bleak time, but at least it had some natural respect for the place. This is not the case now. In some weird kind of way it seems just as bleak here. I head to the shoreline but I can't see where the sunflower is! I know this place! Where is it? I'm so confused! Has it gone? But I'd contacted Mel to tell her I was coming and she said she was there at the sunflower. It must be here?  I ask a local. They tell me to keep heading down the beach and then when I had just stopped believing it still exists, the past reappears to me. The half Thai boats as seats centred around a bar, but now they have a roof over them and so much more. I dump my back pack down but I can't see Mel. I go over to a Thai lady at the bar and say I'm looking for Mel. 

"I'm Carly? Mel's Friend" I say

"Carly! Mel's friend! So excited!" She says and rushes up the stairs.

A couple of minutes later Mel comes down the stairs. She doesn't really look any different from when I saw her ten years ago and strangely enough it doesn't feel any different either. As she hugs me it feels like I just saw her yesterday. I suddenly feel completely at home. I tell her I'm going to stay at a guest house but Mel insist's I stay with them, if I can stand it? It's a simple bed, with a mosquito net, in the storage room. She tells me the roof leaks when it rains and it's very unglamorous, but I couldn't be happier because between living next to the storage supplies and a leaking roof, I'm looking out over my beach, that bay, that beautiful hipnotic view that I still love just as much 10 years ago. For me this bed is priceless. I unpack my stuff and head down stairs and Mel introduces me to Mekhala. She very beautiful. It feels weird to meet her in person as I feel like I've known her for so long but I don't know her at all. Mel tells her our story but she still looks on me as a stranger. She does tell me the name of the stray kitten she has adopted though: Dog Mai ban. I think it meant flower house in Thai?

 I awake in the morning surrounded by storage boxes, a mosquito net and Dog mai ban scratching at my toes. Looking beyond that, there is my beautiful beach. I couldn't be happier. It occurs to me quite early on that Mel has her hands full. Not only has she built the bar; she's running it as well and it's a full time occupation. I decide to head to the beach to keep out of the way. I don't stray too far because, as soon as I head out of the sunflower it turns into foreign terrority for me. It's funny that my beach feels so foreign to me now, as all those years ago I knew it so well! There are cheap bars and the worst kind of tourists everywhere. I hate them! I hate them for stupidity and irgnorance! "People died on this beach! This is the beach ten years ago I threw people's lives into bin bags!" I scream to myself. I calm myself. They are not to know. It's not there fault. I'm sunbathing for a while, when I'm disturbed by a screech of laugher next to me. It's Mekhala and her very cute Thai cousin, Champoo. Mekhala starts talking to me, no holes barred (she has lost her shyness towards me) and I feel a sudden connection with her. She asks me to help her and Champoo into the water with their giant inflatable turtle and a motherly instinct in me doesn't just help them but spends all day playing in the water with them, having the most amazing time. So much so I burn my shoulders because I forget about the sun. So this becomes my days, back in Phi Phi. I play and connect with Mekhala. I put her to bed when Mel is too busy working the bar, and we talk about everything and anything while Dog Mai Ban scratches our feet while we chat. I feel very happy. Life has come full circle. I don't really leave the Sunflower while I'm there. For me the rest of the island has become an estranged relative. Only the sunflower holds onto the same energy and love, of what I first encountered on that island. It would be easy to say the westerns have ruined the island but as I have found in life, everything is a two way thing and the Thai's have let them, ruin it with their own greed for money rather than respecting their own natural beauty. I feel angry at them for ruining this beautiful island. Life is no fairytale and nor is this story. I don't believe in fairytales and I'm sure Mel doesn't either. We are too stronger women for that. Ben will always have his demons from the Tsunami and everything Mel has built up for herself and her daughter could be taken away from them any moment as Mel has no rights under Thai law being a foreigner, but what does matter is that little part of beach, on a little island in Thailand, that holds a special place in our hearts, and always will till the day we die. I hope to see Mel and Mekhala in 10 years time and it feel like yesterday.

I said my farewells to Mel and Mekhala the night before I left, as I was catching the ferry early in morning. It was better that way as I'm not very good at goodbyes even though I've said far too many of them in my life. I walked along my beach that morning and no one was around like all those years ago and then suddenly all the ghosts came flooding back to me and I thought about the teddy bear with one eye and thought about crying. Then I thought about about Mekhala and then I realised new life can spring from the most awful of stuations and life will always go on. I decided then it was time to bury all those bin liners of people's lives, there and then. 

 

MELBOURNE: FRIENDS REUNITED

It's funny how some people come into your life. Take for instance one of my closest friends Kym. Kym was only meant to be in my life briefly and then vanish like a lot of people do. She was renting a room in our warehouse for a couple of weeks while my housemate was away on holiday. During this time I spilt up with my long term boyfriend who I lived with as he was cheating on me with a girl who lived down the corridor from us. With all the tears, shouting and drama, Kym must of thought she had moved into some sort of Jerry Springer episode. I chucked my boyfriend out as it was the only thing to do. The only problem with this was that between us, we rented a bedroom and an office. I could not afford both on my own. As I had been a complete nutter on the verge of a breakdown (or drunk!) most days since she had lived there, it was a complete surprise when Kym said she would move into the office and make it into a bedroom to cover the rent. She stayed for 8 months and over that time we became good friends, and when she left we continued our friendship and over the years she has become a really good, loyal friend to me. So looking back on it now, I'm really glad my boyfriend cheated on me, because I would of probably never of become friends with Kym and gained a person who was far more important to me in my life. I'm also glad he cheated on me as he was German and listened to bad German rap music, so it meant I didn't have to listen to that anymore as well! 

While I was traveling through South America this year, Kym emailed me to say that she had decided to move back to her homeland of Australia after 8 years in London. She was tired of London life and wanted a new start back home. I was devastated. Not only was it another person from my circle leaving London, but moving to the other side of the world! I was going to miss her so much. Kym was the person I rang when I was feeling down, if things weren't going right or if I was involved with another asshole of a man, and she rang me for the same reasons. Things were always easy and uncomplicated with Kym. She has at times, not had the easiest of lives, but you would never know. She never complains, never feels sorry for herself or never makes a song and dance over things.  She has the ability to laugh off the most horrible of situations. I once asked how she always remained so calm and was able to laugh off these things.

"Because if I don't, I would cry and it's much better to laugh" was her response.

I didn't get to say goodbye to her properly as I was lay up in bed with a chest and throat infection from Hell. Maybe it was a good thing as I would of cried my eyes out in front of her, so instead I cried my eyes out on my own, while high on Day Nurse and antibiotics for my infection! 

I was determined to keep in contact when she left. I sent her emails to ask how her new life in Australia was going, but got no response. I felt gutted. "Was this the way it was going to be now she back in Australia. Would she forget about me now" I thought to myself. A couple of weeks later I received an response email. Kym told me that she was sorry for not replying sooner but she had been in hospital for the last couple of weeks with Pancreatitis and a collapsed lung. She calmly said that it had been quite serious and she had nearly died. Not the start to a new life in Australia she had hoped for. Kym was one of my main reasons for visiting Australia. I missed her and I wanted to check my friend was OK. 

"You have Australian visa?"

I'm panting, out of breath at the check in desk of Narita, Tokyo airport after sprinting across the terminal, scared I was going to miss final check in after missing my train and having to wait another hour for the next one. I make it just in time but then I'm presented with this question.

"No" I reply "British passports don't need a visa for Australia!"

"I think they do" replies the woman politely, behind the desk. 

"I've been to Australia before and I didn't need a visa!" As this was seven years ago I really can't remember if this is true or not but I'm sticking to the story.

"I have to check with immigration" she says I picks up the phone and starts to dial. I'm starting to feel nervous. I spy an Australia couple at the desk next to me.

"I don't need a visa for Australia with a British passport do I?" I turn to ask them.

"Na!" they respond "You will be fine."

A tall, thin, camp Japanese man waltzes over.

"I believe you don't have a visa for Australia?" He asks.

"No. I don't need one!" I say defiantly.

"Well then I can't let you board this flight then!"

"What!" I go white and my mouth drops open. "You mean I can't get on the flight!"

"That's what I just said."

"But I have a British passport. I've been before!" I say in shock.

"I have worked here many years and you have always needed a visa" he responds. I hate this guy! He's smug and has a face I want to punch! I stand for a minute defeated.

"You pay 3000 yen and I can do visa online now for you" he says.

"Really?" My face lights up. This guy is not so bad after all. I wait anxiously as he types away at the computer as time ebbs away. This is cutting it down to the wire. After what felt like forever, he turns to me:

"It's done you can check in. Oh and next time you go to a country I suggest you check the visa situation!" 

No! I take it back! I hate him and his smug face, which I still want to punch! I make it to the gate as they announce the final call, with my nerves shot at.

I wasn't go to stay with Kym first up as she was moving into a new house. I had rented an Air B&B with  my friend Biskey who had come to see me from Sydney. As I said it's funny how people come into your life, well read how I meant Biskey and rest of the Pussy Fags (I did not give them this name before you all start telling me off for the use of this term!) in Colombia click here

Actually you should read it as then you will understand the chaos of what is about to follow as they seem to bring chaos with them. The plan was simple. I had the address of the apartment. I would buzz and he would let me in. Hey presto! That simple! Well you would think but as I have learnt, nothing is that simple with the Pussyfags, especially Biskey. After going through immigration and getting my luggage I arrive at the address at 2am. I buzz. Nothing. I buzz again! Nothing! I keep buzzing. Nothing! Nothing, NOTHING! I decide to ring him but I realise I only have Biskeys English mobile number from when he was in London. I have to turn on my 3G. I leave a message to say I'm outside. Nothing! So it's the early hours of the morning and I'm sat on the street with my bags looking like a homeless person in the middle of Melbourne. It's not even warm! I want to kill Biskey! I've been sat there at least half an hour, when a guy walks over:

"Are you OK there?" he asks.

I explain the situation to him. Luckily he lives in the building and takes pity on me and let's me in. Result. I find the apartment and knock on the door a couple of times.  Nothing. I try the handle. The door opens. Amazing! I walk into a dark and silent and apartment. I call Biskeys name. Nothing. I walk from room to room with no signs of life until I finally I reach the bedroom where I can see a figure asleep in the dark. I call Biskeys name again. I walk closer to the bed and then I have a heart attack. You see Biskey is of Indian origin and is dark. This guy in the bed is definitely white! "SHIT! I've walked into the wrong persons apartment! I'm going to get arrested for trespassing in some one else's place!" I think.

I'm still having a heart attack when the person turns around and looks at me.

"Hello slag! Surprise!"

It's Reuben! One of the Pussyfags, but he's not meant to be here! I throw myself on the bed and give him a huge hug.

"Where the Hell is Biskey?" I ask

"He got drunk and didn't want to wait, so went out!" replies Reuben.

"What! He's such an idiot! Why didn't you wait up and let me in?" I ask Reuben.

"I'm not even meant to be here remember? I'm a surprise! None of my responsibility!" is his response and turns over and goes back to sleep. A typical Pussyfag response: I'm not taking responsibility! I decide to go to sleep and not get angry. Why would I expect anything different from these guys? They are total nightmares. Isn't why I get on with them? Life is never boring with them? 

I've been asleep over an hour when I get woken by a phone call.

"Where are you?" Says the person down the line.

"Biskey! Is that you?" I ask.

"Of course it is! Where are you? I've been waiting for you!" He replies

"No you haven't! Where the Hell have you been?" I'm angry and tired after being woken from sleep.

"Yes I have! I've been waiting for you at the casino!" 

"Why the Hell are you waiting for me at a casino?"

"Because that's where I am!" He retorts

"Your an idiot and I'm going to sleep!" And I hang up.

An hour later I'm woken from sleep again. This time it's Biskey in person shaking me! He smells of alcohol. 

"Hey how are you? I was waiting for you?" He says drunkenly

"No you weren't! You were at a casino?"

"I know! I was waiting for you in the casino!"

"Your drunk!"

"No I'm not!"

"I can smell it on your breath!"

"I won $10,000 at the casino!"

"Yeah right! I'm going back to sleep! Nite!" And turn over.

I hear Biskey stumble to the kitchen to fix himself another drink and try to fall asleep while he plays music too loud in the living room. "Well a least they weren't a disappointment on the chaos element" I think to myself as I fall to sleep.

I will give Biskey his dues. No matter how drunk or little sleep he gets he always gets up to battle the next day. He just needs a pair of dark shades and a strong coffee to hot wire him. By the way he didn't win $10,000 at the casino. More like $800! The boys decide as its my first day in Australia they want to take me to the best breakfast place in Melbourne. The problem with this is, they can't decide on a good place. We walk the streets of Melbourne for over an hour to the point that everywhere has shut for breakfast! We miss breakfast! Typical! So I end up having the best lunch in Melbourne. It's not long after midday that the boys decide we should have the first bottle of wine. "Well we should" I think "to celebrate our reunion!" After the lunch (which was bloody amazing!) they take me to a roof top bar that looks like some picture postcard house of white picket fencing and pink upholstered chairs. The sun is shining, the sky is blue, my Dad is on the mend, I'm not on the street looking like a homeless person, I haven't been arrested for trespassing in someone's flat and the boys have just ordered a bottle of Bolllinger! Life is good! I'm full of the joys of spring! Life is very good! We get slowly drunk. We are served at the table by young pretty girls dressed in the shortest of tennis skirts, that if they bend over too much you will see right up them. The boys are in their element. They refer to the girls as number1,2, and 3 and compare who is the best. I think they forget at times I have tits and a vagina because they treat me like I'm one of the boys. The thing is I do have tits and a vagina and I'm really proud of my tits and vagina!

"Will you stop talking about women as if they are objects! We are not objects! We are people!" I berate them.

"We know you have tits and a vagina, but you should be happy that we treat you like one of the boys. Number 2 is nice but I don't really like the underwear she is wearing" Reuben continues to Biskey totally ignoring me.

Assholes! 

I arrange to meet Kym later that evening. I'm so excited to see her. I tell the boys they can't come. The reasons for this is are:

1. Reuben has already asked if Kym is fit. He can hit on the whole of Australia but he ain't going anywhere near my friends.

2. I don't want to be having a deep and meaningful conversation with Kym while in the background all I can hear is them two going on about the merits of the waitresses underwear. 

3. I need to get away from the walking bags of testerone for a bit. I tell them they can meet us for dinner later.

On the way to meet Kym at Flinders street station I realise I'm quite drunk. I have been drinking since midday though and trying to be one of "The Boys!" Kym is already there waiting for me at station. She looks really well. Radiant in fact. Not like someone who has nearly died. I'm so happy to see her well. We walk and talk. It feels like I just saw her yesterday. It doesn't feel like we are the other side of the world. We go to a bar down the lanes and catch up. Kym tells me she has been asked to do a PHD. Back in London Kym was a lawyer for Hackney council. She decided she want to do something different. So she decided to study for a masters in Human Rights and journalism, while still working full time. Kym is extremely intelligent, probably one of the most intelligent people I know, but what I like about her is she can be as ditzy as Hell sometimes too. She passed her masters with a distinction and her dissertation picked up the highest mark in her year. It's this dissertation that an Australian university has picked up on and want her to write a PHD on for 3 years. She tells me that she is waiting to hear if she has been successful in her application for the funding it will take, for the 3 years of research and writing she has to do. I can tell she has pinned all her hopes on this and doesn't quite know what she will do if the application fails. I tell her it will be fine. 

After meeting the boys later on an over crowded roof top bar we decide to go for dumplings in China town. It's cheap and cheerful as you have to bring your own booze. We get sat down in a massive room full of drunken people at a long table crammed with others. It's like some bad medieval banqueting hall. We are sat next to a group of girls when Biskey spies one and does his usual trick and turns to us all and says:

"I'm in love!"

"Your not in love!" I hiss at him "You have only just seen her and you have never spoken to her!"

Biskey ignores me.

By the time the food arrives I realise I'm completely wasted. I look around. Biskey is still staring at the girl like some love sick puppy or stalker (it depends on which way you look at it) and Rueben is looking at some girl in a short skirt that has just walked in. 

"Are they always like this?" Kym asks.

"Yes!" I reply drunkenly

Kym makes the wise decision to depart after dinner (I really don't know why as we are such pleasant company?). It would of been a wise decision for me too by then, but I'm not very good at wise decisions, so instead I down what is left of my bottle of processco in the street and start talking crap to some fellow Brits I find outside a bar. After that things become a little hazy. I remember the boys dragging me to some bar and then them arguing with the bouncer to let me in as he's refused me entry as I'm too drunk. He relents and I'm whisked in and sat down in a corner, while Biskey plonks down a pint glass of water in front of me and tells me to drink it. It's going to take more than a pint of water to sober me up and Biskey realises this

"I'm taking you home" he says. I know I'm in a real bad way as Biskey is the most irresponsible person I know and even he's looking after me! He drags me back to the apartment and dumps me on the bed and goes back out partying (as I said: not responsible)!

I awake the next morning to the hangover from Hell! I wander to the living room to find Biskey passed out on the sofa and Reuben on the floor with some blonde spooning him. They are surrounded by empty bottles and cigarette ends. I decide to have a shower and freshen myself up, while trying my hardest not to throw up on myself in the shower. "I'm getting too old for all of this!" I think to myself in the process.

When I return to the living room the boys are back in the land of the living, the blonde has gone and there raring to go again! "Right lets get back on it!" They beam. I just want to die.

Melbourne is known for its food and the boys take me to one of the best where we eat like kings. They order wine and I'm looking at the glass like its the enemy. 

"Come on. Hair of the dog Carly! It will make you feel much better!"

Funnily enough it does and a bottle later I'm feeling brilliant, and by the time Kym comes to meet later in a bar I'm well....... Drunk again! 

I decide to head to a BBQ of one of Kyms friends and have some time out from the boys. It was perfect weather for it. Melbourne has very changeable weather: worst than Britain if that's possible? One minute it can raining with gales the next it can be 33 degrees and so hot you can't think. It must of been that hot, as I wasn't thinking properly (or was it the fact I was drunk again?) as I rang the boys and decided to join them again instead of going home after the BBQ. They were at one of their friends houses in the suburbs, having a party so I drunkenly got a taxi to the address. The taxi dumps me at the end of a cul-de-sac and I look blurry eyed for the house numbers. I decide the house at the end is the one I want and stagger up the drive and to the porch. "It's very quiet for a party" I think to yourself. The door is open so I just drunkenly stroll in to find an old couple sat watching TV. They turn around in shock when they see me!

"Arnold? Reuben?" I blurt out in panic

They stare back at me blankly.

"This isn't number 34 is it? I'm in the wrong house aren't I?" I say pleadingly

"Yes Doll! It's next door!" Says the old man. 

Shit! I run out the house as quick as possible. "Why the Hell does this keep happening to me?" I think to myself. I don't tell the boys about this incident or I'd never hear the end of it. 

After too many drinks again I find myself collapsed in bed again before midnight (I really am getting too old for it!) and once again awake, to find the boys heaped on the sofas in some drunken state. Luckily they have to catch a flight back to Sydney (which in their state I'm not sure how they managed?), which means my liver and sanity can have a rest, until I see them in Sydney. I clear the carnage and the odour of stale booze left by them and collapse on the sofa. I don't drink that day. The boys have left me broken once again! 

The next day I go to stay with Kym at her place in the suburb of Northcote. She'd only moved in the day before as being ill and in hospital has set her back a bit (nearly dying can do that)! She has moved in with an old childhood friend Bryony who is an artist and her boyfriend Gregory who a scientist. There are two other housemates as well: one who is a teacher who plays the guitar and doesn't shave her arm pits and the other is a lesbian writer who also doesn't shave her armpits either. The house is big, but saying that there isn't much room due to the fact that ever square inch seems to be cluttered with anything and everything. No one seems too keen on cleaning either, but everyone is very big on communal living and sharing, so when dinner time arrives everyone chips in with cooking the food which usually consists of something vegan with kale in it. This is followed by after meal discussions about science, politics and green issues  which leave me feeling kind of stupid and not well read enough. Its how I'd  envisage a 1970s commune in San Francisco to be, only that we are not wearing flares or flowers in our hair; though I wished we were as that would be cool. I also wished I was wearing a crochet waistcoat as well because that would be even cooler. 

The days in Melbourne pass a lot calmer than how they started. Me and Kym go to museums, I eat well (lots of kale)  and my liver becomes normal again.

Before I leave I go to see Ann. Ann is one of my mums friends who she use to work with back in England. Ann has been over the years one of the most encouraging people to me about my travels and my writing. There is a reason for this. Years ago Ann lost her daughter in car accident in Australia when she was back packing. It was all very sad and tragic. I think Ann likes to see my travels as I guess it's probably what her daughter might of done if she was still alive. Ann ended up marrying an Australian and moving over here a couple of years later. 

I meet her at the train station and we go for dinner. Ann is all smiles, with a soft nature. She still has a strong northern accent without a hint of a Aussie twang. She tells me about her life here. She has been helping as a volunteer for road trauma victims and their families. She tells me she finds it hard here sometimes. Even though we speak the same language and Australia is quite similar in some ways to England, you have to remember it is still completely the other side of the world from us. I understand why it would be hard. That said you cannot focus on the negatives of situations in life and I tell her this. She must focus on what she has got here: a good partner; a beautiful city and the blue sunny skies. I would love to live in a country where the sky was blue most days. For me alone that would be worth it. We go and sit by the river and I make Ann have a glass of wine, because as I tell her "everything is better with a glass of wine!" We sit and talk as the sun smiles down on us and while I'm sat there with Ann talking about my travels, with my glass of wine, blue skies and not a care in the world it occurred to me that I should practice what I preach and think about all the good things in my life and not the negative. I realised at that moment I was a very lucky person indeed. 

Next stop Sydney!